Viticulture on the mountain is a mix of the traditional and these “newer” training systems and associated practices. There is no fiercer proponent and advocate of the traditional approach than Salvo Foti. Continua a leggere “Salvo Foti, the pillar of tradition in Mt Etna winegrowing (Wine — Mise en abyme)”
Sicilian Swordfish Fresh Off the Boat (photo by BingoKid)
This Saturday the Italian Food Wine Travel group is off to Sicily for an exploration of the island’s food, wine, history, and culture. Why don’t you join us? We gather (virtually) at 11 am eastern time, following the #ItalianFWT on Twitter. On the first Saturday of each month the group focuses on a particular region of Italy, sharing travel tips as well as food and wine discoveries. It’s always a lively discussion, and I come away inspired to track down a new wine or test a new recipe. Our guide to Sicily will be Martin Redmond, of Enofylz Wine Blog fame, and it’s sure to be a good time! Here’s what’s on tap for the chat:
- Cam of Culinary Adventures With Camilla with be sharing Gnocchi Con Salsa di Pistacchi + Donnafugata Sherazade Rose 2014
- Jill of L’Occasion offers a Winemaker Rendezvous: Lucio Matricardi…
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Conclusion: The right red wine pairs beautifully with swordfish, but artichokes call for a white
A Virtual Return to Sicily
Our Italian Food Wine & Travel group has visited (virtually) Sicily a couple of times. This month, we’re returning with another open invitation to further explore Sicily from afar. I’m fascinated with everything related to Mount Etna, but there’s much more to explore than that one corner of this large island. This time I vowed to move my focus. My fellow bloggers are also posting on Sicily this month, so take a look toward the bottom of this post to link to their finds!
A classic Sicilian preparation: artichokes (carciofi) roasted in the coals
In my research, found that artichokes (Carciofi) are a classic Sicilian veggie choice. A favorite preparation is to simply add a bit of oil and salt and roast them in the coals of a fire…
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Michele Faro loves plants. Especially old ones. Faro, the production manager of his family’s large and successful Sicily-based plant nursery, fell in love with Mount Etna vineyards 15 years ago.
In 2005, he began buying up very old, low-yielding vineyards to start his boutique wine label, Pietradolce. Today, the most striking thing about Pietradolce is its vineyards—not the rows of young, head-trained (“alberello”) vines in front of its sleek new lava-stone winery on Etna’s north face, but the small old vineyards on the slopes behind it. Here, ungrafted Nerello Mascalese bush vines were arranged haphazardly on lava terraces a century ago.
“I buy monuments. These vineyards are monuments,” says Faro proudly. Each vine resembles a small tree, and the collection, a dense orchard. The vineyards are cultivated organically, inaccessible to tractors and require lots of handwork. Some old vines grow out of lava-stone walls, others extend shoots into nearby olive trees.
Between the vines sprout carpets of tall wild greens known as cauliceddi, which locals pick in fall to sauté with sausage and add to pasta. “I like the old style of cultivation,” says Faro, 42, who has the bearing of a young entrepreneur on the move. “Nothing is organized.”
In recent years, I’ve heard many winemakers speak fondly of Faro’s vines. Though the wines—produced with Tuscan consulting enologist Carlo Ferrini—are often debated on style points, his evocative old vineyards seem to be universally admired. Faro himself admits that his wines have not reached the potential of his vineyards, and he hopes to change that.
The 2016 harvest marked the first working in his new gravity-flow, black stone-and-glass winery—a dramatic step up from the cramped winery down by the Mediterranean coast to which he previously trucked his grapes.
“We have more space that will allow us to be more gentle with the wines,” he says, “and to get the best quality we can from our vineyards.” Since his first vintage in 2007, Faro has regularly added on cru bottlings from a collection of old vineyards characterized as “pre-phylloxera.” Many vineyards on Etna were spared the blight that devastated European vineyards in the late 19th century and early 20th century because the phylloxera vine louse has difficulty spreading in sandy soils, including the black volcanic soils here. As a result, the local vines never had to be grafted onto disease-resistant rootstocks from vines native to North America.
“I love pre-phylloxera vineyards because you get naturally more concentration with a small quantity of fruit,” Faro says.
Faro produced his first cru bottling, the red Pietradolce Archineri, from his first harvest, in 2007 (87 points, $35). He followed with more crus as he bought additional plots. Since the 2010 vintage, the oldest and lowest-yielding of his Nerello Mascalese vineyards has been used to make a red called Barbagalli, which is released after three years and fetches his highest prices—an average of $93.
The following vintage, he introduced his first white, Archineri, from more than century-old vines of Carricante on Etna’s east side. (The 2013 vintage, priced at $35, scored 89 points.)
Next came his red 2014 Contrada Rampante, named for the vineyard zone in which most of his old red vineyards lie. With the 2016 vintage, he will introduce yet another red, Contrada Guardiola.
Cru bottlings are certainly the rage in Italy and on Etna—sometimes to excess. That said, in an informal tasting of Pietradolce wines on Etna, I found greater differences than I expected among his red crus: Archineri was generally clean and bright, Rampante was rustic with an animal characteristic, and Barbagalli showed the most minerality and complexity.
Tenuta Delle Terre Nere (DTN) is located in the township of Randazzo on the north flank of the mountain and owns 30-ha of vineyards distributed between 10 parcels in four crus between that town and the village of Solicchiata. Continua a leggere “Mt Etna Wine Estates: Marco de Grazia’s Tenuta Delle Terre Nere (Wine — Mise en abyme)”
In Bordeaux, at the wine bar Aux Quatre Coins Du Vin, I was delighted to to find the Valcanzjria: a complex white that combines the creaminess and roundness of a slightly oaky Chardonnay with the acidity and freshness of Carricante.
Made with grapes harvested at 400 metres high, in Southeastern Sicily, it takes its name from Val Canzeria, the valley where the vines are located and whose name derives from an Arab term which means “place of the wild boars”. It is a single vineyard called “Vigna Muti” and the terroir is a mix of clay and limestone. In the nose, it offers notes of torrone, hazelnut, marzipan and white chocolate. In the mouth, you will find primary aromas as citrus and lemon peel, along with nutty notes of hazelnut, as well as lemon yogurt, whipped cream and white pepper. It has a creamy and round long finish. It can pair extremely well with medium-aged cheese, creamy chicken, risotto agli scampi, spaghetti with clams and seafood in general.
Let us keep on examining Wine Searcher‘s data about Sicilian wines’ popularity: we move to Mount Etna and we begin with Etna Bianco wines.
After the Top10 of Nero d’Avola and Grillo at the end 2016, according to Wine Searcher, let us now have a look at the most popular Cerasuolo di Vittoria in the world. Continua a leggere “The Top10 of Cerasuolo di Vittoria, according to Wine Searcher”
We keep on searching the most popular wines of Sicily according to Wine Searcher’s data, at the end of 2016.
Continua a leggere “The Top10 Grillo from Sicily, according to Wine Searcher”